Celeriac shawarma is a ROVI icon. Ottolenghi’s executive chef Calvin Von Niebel laughs that it’s been on the menu since day one and “it was one of the easiest dishes we ever developed”. He explains that he, Yotam Ottolenghi and the ROVI team were gathered at the test kitchen before the restaurant opened, trying to come up with a strong vegetarian dish. Working from the base idea of barbecued celeriac, Yotam said "lets just make a bunch of condiments and see what works best”. The bhikela-stewed spinach and chilli-fermented tomatoes as they appear here, served with the shawarma spiced celeriac, are unchanged since that first day of conception.